Natural cosmetics and beauty products have gained immense popularity in recent times, prompting cosmetic marketers worldwide to create their own versions that cater to eco-conscious consumers. However, formulating natural cosmetics is a challenging task, primarily because beauty products are not naturally occurring substances. The key obstacles in creating natural cosmetics include determining the definition of “natural,” ensuring that the products are effective, and devising preservation techniques to maintain product safety and quality.
The Trials and Tribulations of Formulating a Natural Cosmetic Line
Defining natural
In order to properly evaluate natural cosmetics, it is important to establish a clear understanding of what is meant by the term “natural.” Given that there are no actual shampoo bushes or skin lotion trees, it may seem that the concept of natural cosmetics is paradoxical. Nevertheless, it is possible to define natural cosmetics according to specific criteria. To that end, we will utilize a three-tiered classification system for natural cosmetics in this discourse.
True Natural
The term “True Natural” refers to a specific category of natural cosmetic ingredients that are derived from plants and undergo a process of chemical purification, yet remain unchanged in their fundamental composition. Essentially, True Natural ingredients are isolated from their source plant and subjected to a refining process that serves to remove any impurities or unwanted compounds, while leaving the key active constituents intact.
This process of purification typically involves the use of solvents, such as ethanol or hexane, to extract the desired components from the plant material. The resulting extract is then subjected to a series of filtration and separation techniques to remove any residual solvents or impurities, resulting in a highly refined, concentrated ingredient.
Despite undergoing chemical processing, True Natural ingredients retain their natural properties and benefits, and are widely regarded as safe and effective for use in cosmetics and personal care products. In fact, many natural cosmetic brands rely heavily on True Natural ingredients to provide the active, plant-based benefits that their customers seek.
“True Natural” refers to purified plant-derived cosmetic ingredients with retained natural properties and benefits, considered safe and effective for use in natural cosmetics
Acceptable Natural
Acceptable Natural ingredients are those that adhere to a set of natural standards, but allow for a certain degree of chemical modification. The natural standards may vary depending on the certifying organization or body, but they provide a clear framework for defining what is considered a natural ingredient.
Unlike True Natural ingredients, which are unmodified and highly refined, Acceptable Natural ingredients may undergo some level of processing or refining while still retaining their natural properties. Methods such as esterification, hydrolysis, or distillation may be used to enhance the ingredient’s efficacy or stability while remaining within the acceptable natural standard.
It’s important to note that the degree of chemical modification allowed varies depending on the specific natural standard, and some may be more lenient than others. Additionally, Acceptable Natural ingredients may also be sourced from non-plant sources, such as animal byproducts or minerals, as long as they meet the natural standards set forth by the certifying body.
Greenwashing natural
Greenwashing in the natural cosmetics industry is a growing concern as more and more consumers seek out products that are eco-friendly and sustainable. One of the key ways in which greenwashing occurs is through the use of ingredients that are technically derived from natural sources but require significant chemical synthesis to produce.
In many cases, these ingredients are not commonly used in cosmetics or personal care products, which allows them to appear more natural on the label. This tactic can be misleading to consumers who are seeking out truly natural products, as they may assume that a product is more natural than it actually is.
The majority of natural products on the market would be considered greenwashed to some degree, as the use of natural-sounding ingredients is often used as a marketing tool to appeal to eco-conscious consumers. However, it’s important for consumers to remain vigilant and do their research to ensure that the products they are purchasing truly meet their natural and sustainable standards.
Acceptable Natural ingredients allow some chemical modification, while greenwashing uses technically natural ingredients that require significant chemical synthesis and can mislead consumers seeking truly natural products
Making functional products
One of the biggest challenges in creating natural cosmetics lies in meeting consumers’ expectations for product efficacy. While many consumers express a desire for green or natural products, their primary concern is often the performance of the product. This presents a challenge for formulators, as natural or naturally derived ingredients may not always perform as well as their synthetic counterparts.
This challenge is particularly evident in the case of surfactants, colorants, and preservatives, which are essential ingredients in many cosmetics and personal care products. Synthetic versions of these ingredients often provide superior performance, such as producing rich lather, vibrant color, or effective preservation. However, the use of synthetic ingredients can conflict with the desire for natural or eco-friendly products.
When formulating natural cosmetics, it becomes crucial to strike a balance between natural ingredients and product efficacy. This often requires extensive research and development to identify and optimize natural ingredients that can provide performance comparable to synthetic ingredients. In some cases, it may also require the use of natural additives or technologies to enhance the performance of natural ingredients.
Creating natural cosmetics can be difficult as consumers prioritize efficacy over naturalness, especially for essential ingredients
Surfactants
Surfactants are a critical component in cosmetic formulations, providing essential cleansing and foaming properties. However, the challenge with natural cosmetics lies in the limited availability of naturally occurring surfactants, making it difficult to formulate effective natural products.
In the category of True Natural, there are only a few natural surfactants available, with saponins being the closest to adequate for use as cleansers. Saponins are glycoside compounds found in plants such as yucca, soapwort, soapbark, and soapnut. Unfortunately, formulators have reported that saponins do not perform well for cleansing products.
For Acceptable Natural formulations according to USDA natural organic standards, there are no natural surfactants that can be used. Some companies use a chemical reaction to create a surfactant in situ by including natural ingredients that react chemically to make a soap. However, these liquid soaps can be harsh on the skin and are not well-received by most consumers.
Under the COSMOS standard, there are several surfactants that are acceptable for use in cleansing products. These include lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, caprylyl/decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, and cocamidopropyl betaine. Interestingly, even sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) is allowed under the COSMOS standard, as it can be derived from natural sources.
In terms of Greenwashing, some companies try to appeal to consumers seeking natural products by replacing scary-sounding synthetic surfactants like sulfates with other synthetic anionic surfactants, such as taurates, sarcosinates, and glutamates. As long as they avoid sulfates, they can use any type of naturally derived synthetic surfactant and still market their products as natural.
The limited availability of natural surfactants presents a significant challenge for creating effective natural cosmetic products. While there are a few natural options available, many natural cosmetic companies rely on acceptable natural and greenwashing tactics to formulate effective cleansing products that meet the expectations of consumers seeking natural options.
Limited natural surfactants create challenges in making effective natural cosmetics, leading companies to use acceptable natural or greenwashing tactics to meet consumer demands for efficacy
Colorants
Colorants are one of the most highly regulated ingredients in cosmetics in the United States. It is illegal to use any ingredient, regardless of source, to color cosmetics that is not approved by the FDA for such use. For natural cosmetic producers, this means that their color options are strictly limited.
The majority of FDA-approved colorants are synthetic ingredients, including those found in so-called mineral makeup, such as iron oxides, zinc oxide, and titanium dioxide. While these ingredients occur naturally, the only approved versions must be synthetically produced in the lab due to contamination issues. Naturally occurring minerals are often laced with dangerous heavy metals like lead, cobalt, or arsenic, whereas synthetic versions have far less contamination. There are some colorants that do not require FDA certification and are directly derived from nature, such as annatto, chlorophyllin, carmine, henna, and caramel. However, the range of colors these ingredients can provide is limited.
Most natural cosmetic companies adopt one of two strategies when it comes to colorants. They either use direct-from-nature colorants, which have limited color options, or they use standard colorants but claim to use natural ingredients by arguing that these ingredients can be found in nature.
The limited availability of natural colorants presents a significant challenge for natural cosmetic companies in the United States. While some natural options are available, many natural cosmetic brands rely on standard synthetic colorants and make claims of natural ingredients to market their products to consumers seeking natural options.
Natural cosmetic brands offer limited direct-from-nature or standard colorants, sometimes with greenwashing claim
Preserving products
Maintaining the purity of natural ingredients in cosmetics can be a significant challenge due to the risk of contamination and microbial growth. While traditional preservatives such as parabens and formaldehyde donors are effective, they do not fit within a natural cosmetics theme. As a result, natural cosmetic formulators must use alternative preservatives, such as phenoxyethanol, phenethyl alcohol, organic acids, their salts, benzyl alcohol, and other natural materials.
However, using natural preservatives has its own set of challenges. For example, phenoxyethanol and phenethyl alcohol have a strong odor that is difficult to mask. Organic acids only work as preservatives at lower pH levels, which may not be suitable for some beauty care products. Benzyl alcohol is a known allergen, and other natural materials like tea tree oil, rosemary, or cinnamon may not be broad-spectrum enough to work as a standalone preservative.
Despite these challenges, successful natural cosmetic brands like Burt’s Bees, Aveeno, and Physicians Formula have demonstrated that it is possible to create truly natural products that adhere to consumers’ natural standards. However, this requires careful consideration of what consumers believe is natural, as well as meticulous formulation and testing to ensure the efficacy and safety of natural preservatives.
The challenge of formulating natural cosmetics lies in balancing the desire for natural ingredients with the need for product efficacy and safety. While good marketing can play a role in the success of natural cosmetic brands, it is ultimately the quality and effectiveness of the product that will determine its success in the highly competitive cosmetics market.
Formulating natural cosmetics is challenging because traditional preservatives don’t fit with natural themes
Formulating a natural cosmetic line comes with its own unique set of challenges and obstacles. From limited availability of natural surfactants and colorants to finding effective and safe natural preservatives, creating truly natural cosmetics requires a careful balance between product efficacy and consumer expectations. However, successful natural cosmetic brands have proven that it is possible to create effective and safe products that meet the demands of eco-conscious consumers. By prioritizing research and development, ethical sourcing, and transparency, natural cosmetic companies can continue to push the boundaries of what is possible in the world of cosmetics and meet the evolving needs of consumers seeking natural options. With ongoing advancements in technology and an increasing focus on sustainability, the future of natural cosmetics looks bright.
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